Beaujolais grows up (France)

As France’s wine tastes shift away from bombast toward more balanced efforts, let’s imagine we could reduce that trend to a single wine from a single place. This wouldn’t be a wine made to floor you, overpower you or incite some rapturous state. It wouldn’t be a “great” wine, a high-scoring wine. On the contrary, it would be a wine that symbolises the waning years of point-score piety, a wine for which profundity is an option but not an expectation, a wine whose sole purpose is to charm. To me right now that place, that wine is Beaujolais, writes Patrick Comiskey in the LA Times.