The reign of terroir

What is it about Dalwhinnie, questions Huon Hooke in Sydney Morning Herald. Is it that this Pyrenees vineyard manages to produce great shiraz more often than anyone else in the region – elder statesman Taltarni included? Is it that Dalwhinnie manages to avoid the regional eucalyptus and peppermint characters in its red wines more successfully than any other in this densely gum-tree dotted region?