A sweet lament: The riesling backlash begins

Sommeliers keep pushing sweet Riesling but it is varietal suicide, Jason Wilson claims. This will be the first June in seven years that we won’t be besieged by the relentless Summer of Riesling campaign. No more fake “RIESLING” tattoos; no more mediocre bars offering three cheap, off-dry Kabinett wines on the happy-hour menu to entice wannabe hipsters. No more evangelical somms scolding us to drink Rieslings that no wine lover in Germany or Austria would fancy.