Aussie wine’s new school: the heat is off

If there is a single word I associate most with Aussie wine it is heat. How we envied the Australian producers their heat years ago. It ripened grapes effortlessly, creating the kinds of wines that first captivated me in my late teens. Those bottles of Seppelts Moyston Claret and Chalambar Burgundy I purloined from my father’s cellar were dark, soft, boozy and luscious. I couldn’t imagine how wine could get any better. And then it all changed. I can’t remember exactly when I decided I couldn’t take that heat any more.