Removing the manipulation stigma from Winemaking

Manipulation is a much-maligned word, suggesting that the winemaker is somehow cheating. Clark Smith believes we should just get over it. Accusing a winemaker of manipulation is like calling your wife a whore because she’s sleeping with you. To dishonour our craft is both insulting and naïve. Winemaking is, after all, just a form of food preparation – the ultimate slow food. Chefs are supposed to manipulate things. It’s what we do.