Why there’s more to Australian wine than Chardonnay

Australia changed the way we drink way back in the Nineties, when its golden Chardonnay and life-affirmingly lusty Shiraz brought wine hedonism to our sun-starved shores. But, like maiden aunts constantly surprised that the niece we remember as a toddler smearing chocolate cake over her face is now managing the national debt, we’re still reluctant to allow that it has grown up.