Vigneron dishes the dirt

There’s a small patch of land at Whorouly, close to Beechworth in the state’s north-east, where an extraordinary fruit salad of mostly unpronounceable grape varieties flourishes, writes Jane Faulkner in The Age. There is mtsvane, ehrenfelser, bacchus, odola, fer, teroldego, saperavi, brachetto and more. Its talented grower, Mark Walpole, does things differently.